How to Install a Wall SafeWe
are not responsible for any injury to
yourself or others, any damage to your
wall, you tools, or your wall safe. These
directions are only to assist with
installation.
Choose the location
for your wall safe carefully. Some wall
safes are large enough to extend through
the back side of the wall. All the fire
rated wall safes are this way because
they are especially large to accommodate
insulation. An example is the AMSEC Model
WFS1310 Wall Safe.
While choosing the
location of your wall safe, check that
the area of wall does not contain
electrical, plumbing, or heating duct
work.
Some older houses
might create problems where the studs
might not be 16 inch on centers (O/C).
Should this be your situation, you will
need to either add to the studs to narrow
the opening, and or you may need to
install headers top and bottom to support
the safe.
Tools that you will
need to install a wall safe:
Safety Glasses: 
A drill,
(with bits large enough to facilitate
the insertion of the Key Hole Saw, Drywall saw, blade.
Your local hardware
will have spade bits, which are
inexpensive, and a way to make large
holes). 
A carpenters level,
Torpedo Level, 
An electronic stud
locator, (optional), You could also use a hammer
(to gently tap the wall, noting that
when you strike a solid area the sound
will be a dead thud).
A Measuring tape: (to measure height from
floor).
Painters Tape (to outline the area where
the safe opening will be cut. Apply tape
so that your opening will be centered on
a 2 inch tape. This will also assist in
the non-marring
of the wall
surrounding the opening, should you use a
jig saw to cut the
opening.
A Phillips, Flat
tipped screw driver, possibly wrench ( to fit the mounting
hardware that you are using).
Drop cloth: (To contain your debris
from cutting the opening).
2 in X 4 in and or
shims to space your safe between the
studs. 
Photo Hanger hooks (used to hang a picture to
conceal the safe after installation).
To locate the studs
in the wall where you desire to install
your wall safe, your local hardware most
likely will have what they call a stud
locator. These are small electronic
devices that will locate nail heads that
are covered with the sheet-rock putty.
Once you have one stud located you then
search to the right and or left of that
stud to locate the other stud. Remember
that studs are normally located on what
is known in the industry as 16
inch-on-centers (C/L). This meaning that
if you could see the stud, from one
surface (A) to the other
surface (B) is the width of a
stud (1 ½ in). Then you measure from the
center of each stud, to determine the
location (16in C/L).
Iß-----------------14 ½ in.
----------------I
I---------STUD-----
---I I-------STUD--------I
( A->I------
1 1/2 in. -------I<-B) (
A->I---- 1 1/2 in. -------I<-B)
I<----------------------------------
16 in
C/L--------------------------------->I
If the safe size
requirements are such that you have
chosen a safe that will protrude through
the back side of the wall, remember to
choose a location say in a bed room,
where the safe could protrude through
into an adjoining closet wall (to
allow concealment) of the protruding
portion. Some choose a wall that might
protrude over a utility room. Should you
choose this as an option, make sure that
if there are top loading laundry
equipment below the protruding portion,
that there will be sufficient clearance
so as to not hinder the use of the
equipment. Some choose a wall that might
be adjoining to an attached garage, where
the protruding portion might not affect
anything. Some have a house constructed
such that the protruding portion might be
allowed to enter an un-used attic area.
Some are designed such that the
safe can be installed so that the
protruding portion might protrude below a
stairway (to the upstairs).
1.) Remove
furniture, any decorations from the area,
lay down the Drop cloth to contain
any
debris created from your installation. If
your area has carpeting below your
installation area you might
consider using the painters tape to tape
the Drop cloth
along the wall area below your work
area, (to prevent dust from cutting the
wall board
from filtering into the Drop Cloth
Wall Juncture area).
2.) If you are
installing a safe like the V-line
Wall Safe Model 41214 with
exterior Dimensions: 14"H x
12"W x 3 1/2"D, your
installation only requires you to cut
through the wall in the room that you are
installing in. Should you be installing a
safe
like
the WFS1310 Wall Safe, with
exterior dimensions of H
17" x W 13" x
D 14 5/8".
You
will be required to cut through both
sides of the wall where you are
installing in
3.)
Most Wall safes are shipped with
instructions from the Manufacturer on
installation,
should this be the case refer to
these instructions to continue.
4.)
Your next step should be to locate
the studs on both sides of where you are
installing
the safe, marking each.
5.)
Make a template of the back of your safe,
(the portion that will be protruding
through the wall). Place your template at
the height which makes entry comfortable
for you. Using your carpenters level,
(torpedo level), level your template, and
trace around its perimeter. Again confirm
that there are no electrical wires,
plumbing, heating ducts located at your
installation area.
6.)
Double Check that your template is level
and square. Should you not be
positive that there is no electrical
circuitry in your opening location turn
off any circuits that might be affected.
7.)
Using the drill, and a spade bit,
whichever size your saw would require,
make holes in the four corners of the
marks you made with your template.
8.)
If you will be using a Jig Saw to cut the
opening, it helps if you apply the
painters tape around the cut area to
prevent marking the wall. Remove this
tape once the opening has been made.
Confirm that your saw blade will not be
protruding through the back side of the
wallboard nailed to the studs (In the
other room) if your installation does not
require a protrusion.
9.)
If your installation requires protrusion
through the back side of the wall,
confirm that you are holding the saw
square, and perpendicular to the cut
area. Cut along all four sides of the
area you marked, removing the portion of
wall that you cut, and discard.
10.)
Remember that the safe has a face flange,
and thus no finishing of the cut edges
will be required.
11.)
Using the shim material, cut pieces to
shim the studs to the dimensions
required.
Pre-Drill holes in the ends to prevent
cracking when you fasten to the studs.
12.)
Place the safe in the opening, (pre drill
holes for mounting), and fasten the safe
to the studs.
13.)
Remove any debris remaining in the area,
all tools, Wipe down the wall area below
your installation, (using a mild soap
water), and replace any decoration moved
to allow for your installation. Locate
sufficient supporting and install a
hanging device to cover the safe face
with a print, photo of interest to you.
A.)
If you live in a log home, where the
inner walls are of Logs, a floor, or free
standing Fireproof, waterproof safe might
better fit your needs.
B.)
If you live in an igloo, you might want
to consider a free standing Fireproof,
waterproof safe, to better fit your
needs.
C.)
If your dwelling is constructed of
concrete, a floor, or free standing
Fireproof, waterproof safe might better
fit your needs.
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